Below - Intricate PNG motifs made from PNG gold - a gecko, PNG Kina coin & Kundu pendants
In the jungles, valleys, mountainsides
and river banks of Papua New
Guinea ; washed up by pristine waters and painstakingly
filtered by miners – silver and gold come to life when artisans at the House of Gemini or Kara Jewellers put their talent to work. The process of rolling wire,
moulding, shaping and polishing jewellery is same the world over.
What is so vastly different
about the jewellery made in Papua
New Guinea is the inspiration deeply rooted in
a rich cultural heritage which is expressed onto the individually handcrafted gold
and silver pieces. In this story we celebrate the shining examples who rarely
receive accolades. They are the jewels of this country.
Tau Rupa exemplifies one of
those. He is a wealth of talent His superbly crafted handiwork adorns beautiful
women not only in Papua New
Guinea but arguably in every corner of the
globe. His typical day at the House of Gemini could be spent sketching,
designing, moulding, shaping, engraving and polishing fine jewellery worth
thousands of Kina made of gold and silver encrusted with diamonds and precious
stones.
Yet this unassuming 54 year
old from Babaka village in the Central
Province only completed
Grade 6. At 16 years and fresh out of school, Tau Rupa travelled to Port Moresby in search of
a job. The only jewellers in Papua
New Guinea then were Kara Watchmakers located
in Boroko. He was given an opportunity to enter an industry that was in its
infancy and had not yet realised the enormous potential it had on its doorstep.
Tau has not looked back since.
Mining Boom
The boom in mineral mining in
Papua New Guinea
in the 1980s brought with it the window of opportunity for using affordable
local gold and silver in jewellery making. Alluvial gold mining also introduced
an opening for using gold nuggets for refining and in exquisite settings. Jewellers
like Tau were able to use these local precious metals to perfect their craft. Tau
spent painstaking hours training under the watchful eyes of overseas jewellers,
brought to Papua New Guinea
by Kara.
A white shell bangle enriched by PNG gold
(photos - www.rockyroephotographics.com)
Over 30 odd years, he has seen
Every
piece of jewellery has its own character and personality depending on who’s
wearing it. Usually, it is shrouded in myth and intimacy. PNG jewellery is heavily
influenced by tribal rituals, colourful body decorations, patterns and designs as
well as implements used in daily lives. The designs are created against a
backdrop of prolific oral history where legends and folklore represent tribal
identity. The designs in the jewellery settings bring to the fore the
brilliance in the craftsmen’s interpretations.
Masks from the Sepik , lime pots from the Trobriands, garamut
drums from Manus, bilum with a baby, lagatoi from Central,
and mud man from Goroka are just some of the motifs that can be identified
at the House of Gemini and Kara jewellery shops. These motifs are engraved or
moulded on just about anything from brooches, bracelets, ear rings, pendants to
tie pins. Even the type of links found on the chains for necklaces or bracelets
are uniquely Papua New Guinean. Many of the gold and silver jewellery pieces
are intricately set with a variety of gemstones, coloured pearls, local black
coral and shells. Carved pig tusks and crocodile teeth lined with gold inlay are
among the highly priced.
PNG Motifs are Popular
It is not uncommon for
customers to be fussy about the type of jewellery they want. And who better to
be attentive to the finer detail than women jewellers. They are in an enviable position of soldering and transforming
what looks like a humble rusty piece of wire into a gleaming gold item. At the
end of the day, it’s seeing the expression of delight on the face of a customer
that gives them much satisfaction.
Charles Vrettas explained of Kara, “We
wanted to make jewellery that was different yet expressive of the daily lives
and habits of Papua New Guineans. For many expatriates, we have provided them
the opportunity to take away mementoes of where they have lived.”
“Jewellery is something that
memorializes an occasion. It is a memory of one’s life. People who have lived
or visited PNG and still have many fond memories of this country, have taken a
piece of PNG away – through their jewellery. It doesn’t matter to them what
price they have paid. Their jewellery is valued by the memories they have of Papua New Guinea .”
The benefits of the increase
in the world gold prices also trickle down to the jewellers in the country. Conversely
the fluctuations of gold prices are reflected in the price of jewellery in PNG.
Kathy Johnstone, owner of the
House of Gemini explained that the price of her gold jewellery is determined by
the United States
gold market.
“The price of each jewellery
is different because we never ever make the same piece. Each piece of jewellery
is like a fingerprint. The basic design or look may be the same, for example a
mask may look like the next mask. But each item is handcrafted individually and
we price each one according to its weight,” Kathy said.
She added that Papua New Guinea
gold jewellery is refined from 99.99 % pure gold.
“In this case, every piece of
gold jewellery a customer buys should be seen as an investment,” she stated.
Jewellery from Papua New Guinea
is certainly something precious to treasure. It is a genuine article of
finesse.
You are definitely privileged
to own it. And you should wear it close to your heart.
copyright Euralia Paine
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